Terminator 2

20131224 T2 purchased from Mike in Thorndon (Thanks Greg)

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Issues:

  • Right flipper sticking (Corroded flipper switch contacts, current on activationis sticking the switch contacts
  • At least 2 GI circuits out
  • J115 burnt connector (AC input for GI)
  • A couple of broken solder points underneath

GI Issues:

 

Lots of trouble shooting information here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

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Fixed:

  • Removed last 2 pins of J115 (12 pins) put in new 2 pins
  • Removed 4 last pins of J115 jack (Pin 9 is cutoff/key)
  • Connected 3 pin crimped socket to reconnect pins 10-12 with 10-11 linked per previous loopback.
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GI Fuse blown, left lower GI string
  • Removed J121, meter on GL on playfield still showed short
  • Unsolder purple feeder from each of 3 strings
  • identified problem string, removed each bulb holder, widened lower solder tabs where *might* touch other part of bulb holder, screwed bulb holders back in, ok now
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Cannon won't calibrate, diagnostics show both Home & other switch working ok
  • sprayed all connector with contact cleaner
  • Removed cannon
  • Pulled apart motor & cleaned/regreased
  • Pulled cannon & cleaned/regreased shaft
  • Noticed motor driver PCB A-13892-2 has main cap with broken lead
    • 1000uF 50V axial electrocap
    • replaced cap, ok now
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Left GI out again
  • Fuse ok
  • Removed J121 & powered playfield string from external power supply, all ok

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Trouble Shooting GI per https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/ydBXYAa3CNs
Set your DMM to AC Volts 

Go to connector J120 

Read the voltage across pins 1 and 7 
Then, 2 and 8 
3 and 9 
5 and 10 
6 and 11 

All should be around 6.3 

Then, repeat those tests on J121 

Are any missing? 

If so, pull the driver board, and put the meter on continuity test. This 
is the one that beeps or buzzes to show 2 points are connected. Test the 
following: 

     J115 pin 1 to ground. Note if this connection is broken, wacky GI 
dimming can occur. 
     J115 pin 2 to fuse F106 (lower left) to J120/J121 pin 11, to J119 
pin 1. 
     J115 pin 3 to fuse F110 (lower right) to J120/J121 pin 7. 
     J115 pin 4 to fuse F109 (upper right) to J120/J121 pin 8. 
     J115 pin 5 to fuse F107 (middle left) to J120/J121 pin 10. 
     J115 pin 6 to fuse F108 (upper left) to J120/J121 pin 9. 

     J115 pin 7 to Q10 top leg (triac lower rt). Q10 middle leg to 
J120/J121 pin2. 
     J115 pin 8 to Q18 bottom leg (triac upper rt). Q18 middle leg to 
J120/J121 pin1. 
     J115 pin 9 - key 
     J115 pin 10 to Q16 top leg (triac lower mid). Q16 middle leg to 
J120/J121 pin5. 
     J115 pin 11 to Q14 top leg (triac upper mid). Q14 middle leg to 
J120/J121 pin3. 
     J115 pin 12 to Q12 top leg (triac left). Q12 middle leg to 
J120/J121 pin6, to J119 pin3. 

Even if the traces *look* good, you should always check for continuity - 
that's the #1 cause of GI problems after rebuilding.